Cid-27 Donnerbüchse DAS WERK Decal Step By Step

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Welcome to a little tutorial. Many of you fine people might be familiar with the process already. Allow me to to give you a run-down nevertheless. The level we´re operating on would be “mediocre”. It would need some familiarity with your equipment and with your poison of choice, aka you paint system/category.

 

I will not talk about mixtures and pressures. That´s all you using your preferred brand of paint. It would be great if you would be familiar with terms such as pre-shading, filter and pin-wash. That would help. However, most of this is being illustrated, so you should be able to tune in easily in any case.

 

What we are looking at is a concept which I would like to call "seamless planking". The idea behind these transparent decals is that we dont have any planking lines printed on the artwork, but the 3d lines on the object are being the visible separators between them planks. What we are looking at is a concept which I would like to name as:

 

                                 "SEAMLESS PLANKING DECALS"

 

The idea behind these transparent decals is that we don’t have any planking lines printed on the artwork, but the 3d lines on the object are being the visible separators between them planks. The big advantage of this is that we can work with larger areas, slappin´ them decals down and watch in awe how well it works.

 

We have two different textures in the scope of delivery, which besides differing slightly from each other in hue, they also differ in visual texture. They are designed to visually function side by side.

 

One of the biggest levers we can play with is our decision about whether or not we want to involve oil paints. If we would not, we´re goinna be walking on the bright side of things. If we would involve oil paint, the colors are going to be warmer. The whole process is designed for you to be able to decide mid-way or combine both techniques.

 

Glossary

Base coat: A single- or multi layered coat of paint.

Filter: A very thin and translucent layer of paint for the purpose of changing hue.

Tone Mapping: Adjusting the darkest and lightest areas of an image. In the image above this technique has been applied using Brown oil paint with no thinner but a little bit of a drying accelarator.

1.) Battleplan painting

  1. Base coat in Buff
  2. Pre- shading in Black
  3. Harmonizing in Buff
  4. Accentuating centers of planks and boards in translucent White
  5. Harmonizing in translucent White

 

2.) Battleplan Decals:

  1. Cutting to size (eyeballing and adjusting or tracing)
  2. Setter down (you may add some white PVA glue)
  3. Decals down
  4. Applying Softer if required
  5. Sealing with Clear Gloss (->3A.) or with Clear Flat (->3.)

 

3.) Post Application Adjustments including oil paint (continuing from 2.5)

  1. Applying Burnt Sienna oil paint onto the flat finish. Consider adding oil paint drying accelarator
  2. Removing oil paint as desired using White spirit. Chisel brush
  3. Allow to stabilize or fully cure
  4. Seal with Clear on the gloss level desired

 

3A.) Post Application Adjustments without oil paint (continuing from 2.5.)

  1. Pin washes if required
  2. Tone mapping / local filters if required
  3. Zenithal light effects using acrylic filters if required.
  4. Adjustung gloss level/sheen using Clear varnish

 

Alright. Nuff theory. All hands on deck and let´s get dirty.

First of all I woul like to show you a pretty straight forward method of pre-shading. In this scenario we would not enhance each and every plank, we would merely visually separate certain elements of the image from each other. By image I mean the object, the kit part, itself. Let´s just treat it as an image because it´s basically what it is, but in 3D.


Left: Plain base coat of Tamiya Buff

 

Half Left: Tape on

 

Half Right: Accentuating the main elements of the image

 

Right: Masks off

 

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