DPC-35 Disc camo masking stencil for late Panther Ausfuerung G.

MAH and MAN production Panthers, Sept-Oct 1944. A tutorial by Javier Soler Gonzales

1.) Preshading "Zenithal light". Javier does it the spanish way, of course. :-)
2.) Soft edge camo elements
3.) Remove tha mask from the carrier film. Stick it on a piece of glass and remove it again. This helps to remove any remains that may be left in the spaces between the discs.
4.) Stick it on the model. You´re good to go now. Brush over with dark yellow.
5.) Clear for weathering. This turret was painted by utilizing the small yellow piece only. Javier considered 3 full vehicles possible with one set.

UvDR-1 Burnishing Agent

A matter of time.Tutorial video showing the effect of Uschi´s burnishing agent in real time.

Tips and hints regarding the burnishing agent

Clean before immersion

why:

Avoid uncovered spots causing irregular colouring

 

Use a plastic tray

why:

Avoid unintended reactions with other tray materials

 

thin 1:1 with water

why:

Better control if you aim for natural results.

More time to eleminate bubbles (irregular colouring)

Better coverage when immersed completely ((irregular colouring))

 

Separate the emerging sediment before store for re-use

why:

Avoid prolonged and unintended chemical reactions causing the

"exhausting" of the product over the time once stored.

WGC/WGF wood grain decal series Tutorial video

WGC/WGF wood grain decal series Tutorial step by step

Eduard´s 1/48 Alabtros D.III

First of all, we apply a basecoat of a rather dark kind of yellow (dersert yellow) followed by a preshading
To separate the panels from each other, one can alter the tone of each panel on this very early stage already.
The alternative approach. A slightly preshading, followed by a even coat of a single and suitable colour. Tamiya flat flesh is just great. This colour has red, white and yellow elements in it, allowing you a rather bright result.
To trim the decals in the appropirate shape, first we need a template. Therefore we take some masking tape and stick it on the model. A soft graphite pencil helps us to determine the panel lines. We just follow along these lines.
After removing the tape from the model, we stick it on our decal sheet. Now we can cut the sheet easy into the desired shape. Doing so, any convexities are transportable as well, so you will have a decal where this issue already has been considered.

Actually you do not need to work 100.000% correctly at this stage. It´s not a finishing work. The finish comes later in form of the glaze. You will then have the option to hide any little imperfections and integrate them into the picture. The glaze will cover anything nice and smooth. Well this is not a charter to work inaccurate, but you know...just in case.

Rather fidly details are no problem. You can cut them out like shown on this picture. The decal film is thin and flexible and clings to the surface details, so you actually can just paste it over the details. WGC 48 shows off on this picture.

At this point again you have options.
If you like a clear and pronounced wood grain, just seal the decals with mat clear and get ready for the glaze.

If you prefer a rather subtile effect, give it a misting coat of flesh or radome for example, to reduce the impact and make it more balanced and not that prominent.

Unreduced decal effect. Apply the oil colors point blank to the decal for a dark type of wood, as on show on the upper side of the fuselage. WGF 48 in full effect.
Slightly reduced decal effect. Nice and decent.
Strongly reduced decal effect. Pure understatement.
Ad aditional depth for more subtile effects. Use the brush streaks as a further tool to alter the angle and direction of the pattern.
Pretty prominent and a little overdone? A matter of taste.
More subtile, softe and gentle? Again, a matter of taste.

For best results, we recommed the use of both types of decals mixed with each other. Coarse and fine texture is available in small and large.
Small is fine for the 72nd scale (WGC/WGF 72), large fits the scales from 1/48th to 1/24th (WGC/WGF 48)

Tutorial No2, Faster with less drying time. Acrylic filters enter the stage.

Roden´s 1/32 Albatros D.III (OAW)

As mentioned in Tutorial No1, again acrylics works as a basecoat. Desert yellow first, a slightly preshading, radome, and radome+white at the end.

 

 

WGF-48, cut to shape and applyed.

 

 

A heavy filter with radome applyed. The colour is thinned down to a 50/50 ratio.

 

 

Tamiya X-26 clear orange works as a acrylic filter on this picture. Actually you can leave it as it is and move further. These Albatros airplanes was made of bright Birch-Wood. You can control the brightness of the wood with the amount of X-26 applyed.

 

 

I just could not resist and added some additional texture on it, using a mix of oil colour and Sin Industries filters. We now have a additional effect, caused by the brushstrokes. The object at the very right is a test-piece to play around with the impact of the colour. Its always a good idea to test before to prevent yourself from being not satisfied.